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61 Interesting Facts What Does Lavender Look Like When It First Sprouts | Lavender Seedling Stages

  • Starting lavender indoors tends to be preferred for its higher probability of success. You can more reliably germinate lavender seeds in the controlled conditions of a window, greenhouse, or grow light setup. Whether you use cell trays or open flats, your seedling containers can be filled with a quick-draining seed starter mix and easily monitored for the 3 to 4 weeks they need to germinate. - Source: Internet
  • Lavender Lady was one of the first lavenders that came from seed easily, and it blooms well the first year. Traditional Provence and Lacy Frill, a pretty white lavender, also come from seed and unless you only want one or two plants. Growing lavender from seed is a great way to fill your perennial bed with refreshing fragrance and beautiful color. - Source: Internet
  • Direct sowing lavender seed is less successful than starting your seed indoors. Because of this, we highly recommend that you start your lavender seed indoors and then transplant outdoors after the chance of frost has passed and there are several sets of true leaves. True leaves are simply the leaves that look like baby-sized lavender leaves. - Source: Internet
  • Direct seeding allows your lavender to establish in-place the way it would in nature. The main caveat, however, is a lack of control over the climate. Be sure to sow 50-60% more seeds than you need to account for unexpected losses or a lack of germination. Follow these steps when it comes to direct seeding. - Source: Internet
  • Hang Dry: Cut about 8-12” of fresh growth per stem and bundle together. More established plants will yield longer stems. Hang the lavender bundle upside down in a dry, cool, and well-ventilated area for 7-10 days. Herbs will not properly dry in overly humid spaces. - Source: Internet
  • Lavender Essential Oil For thousands of years, this simple and delightful fragrance has been attributed to relieving stress, headaches, anxiety, and depression as lavender essential oils are still popularly sold as a topical stress reliever. While some studies have found correlations between lavender oil and the offsetting of early Alzheimer’s Disease, lavender is still best if considered a casual homeopathic herb rather than a viable medication. Beyond any other purported benefits, lavender is grown first and foremost for its fragrance, flavor, and color far more than any other purpose. Lavender blooms are both popularly dried and picked fresh for tea, which the brewing process makes the raw lavender oils more palatable for digestion. - Source: Internet
  • Never in first year If living in grow zone 7 or cooler, prune lavender in the spring after a harsh overwinter, allowing the plant to focus energy on bloom production. In climates with warmer winters, lavender can be pruned in mid to late summer after season-long sunlight. Do not prune lavender plants during their first year as they require more energy to establish roots. Larger and overgrown lavender plants can even be pruned back up to 4 times a year, while still boosting healthy new growth. Pruning schedule depends on region - Source: Internet
  • As previously mentioned, lavender seeds germinate slowly. On average, lavender takes 2-3 months to sprout. Whereas cold stratified lavender seeds can germinate in 2-3weeks. - Source: Internet
  • When sited correctly and pruned judiciously, lavenders should live for five to seven years. Although lavender is fairly drought tolerant, adequate moisture is required throughout the growing season. Most critical are the weeks after planting to ensure that soil around the rootball does not dry out. - Source: Internet
  • Minimum 10 hours of sunlight If transplanting from indoor starts, lavender seedlings will benefit from a light composting when first transplanted. Lavender typically doesn’t require any heavy fertilizer or feedings for healthy growth but potted lavender can benefit from a balanced fertilizing every 2 weeks during the spring. Be sure the pot is at least 12-16” in diameter to allow for a smaller 24” spread. If growing indoors, be sure to provide 10-12 hours of full daily sunlight. - Source: Internet
  • In early spring, at the start of the growing season, fertilize your lavender with a small dose of a balanced liquid fertilizer. Dilute the concentrated formula at half the rate listed on the package directions, then use this to water your plants once. Lavender only needs a dose of fertilizer once a year. - Source: Internet
  • After the last frost transplant your lavender into the garden by simply turning over your gardening pot, pinching the bottom of the pot, and slowly pulling your plant out. Place your lavender plant into the hole and fill it with garden soil (to where the soil meets the base of the plant). It is also beneficial to add a 6 inch layer of mulch around your plant. - Source: Internet
  • The best time for planting lavender outside is in the spring, ideally from mid-May after the last frost. You can also plant lavender out as early as the end of March. Larger plants are able to cope better with cooler temperatures, but in this case, we recommend mulching around the plant to protect it from frost. As long as there is a good water supply, you can even plant lavender in summer. Planting lavender in autumn, however, is not recommended as there is barely enough time for the plant to get well established before the winter months. - Source: Internet
  • Germinate slowly. Lavender seeds take a while to sprout. At its fastest, lavender seeds will germinate in 2-3 weeks, but be prepared to wait up to 1 month or more for sprouts to appear. Patience is key. - Source: Internet
  • Hybrid lavender seeds were made by combining the genes of the same group of plants. This is not a bad thing. The goal with hybrids is to produce a plant that contains the best features of both parent plants. - Source: Internet
  • Another common complaint is that lavender seed doesn’t grow true-to-variety from collected seed and some purchased seed, resulting in plants with varying heights, sizes, and colors. Certainly, if you are looking for exact replicas of varieties this could be frustrating, but in most cases, it would be more of a landscape feature to have slight variations in a planting. In any case, seed companies work tirelessly to ensure that their seeds will grow uniformly, so when in doubt, be sure to check your seed source for any warnings about a variety. - Source: Internet
  • Once you’ve got happy lavender starts that are about 3 inches tall with a few sets of leaves, it’s time to get them ready for life outdoors by hardening off your lavender. Hardening off your plants is the process of slowly getting them used to living outside. This is done to acclimate them, reduce shock, and give you the best chance of successfully transplanting them so they can thrive outdoors. - Source: Internet
  • In the right location, lavender is a beautiful, low-maintenance bee-friendly plant. Lavender oil can also help ward off fungus gnats and its flowers can be used to make herbal teas or a home remedy against clothes moths. In addition to planting lavender in your herb garden, you can also grow it as fragrant dwarf hedging or plant it as a border. A planting spacing of about 20 to 40 cm is ideal when planting lavender in a garden bed. While lavender looks lovely on its own, it is better to plant three to five plants together. - Source: Internet
  • Like most herbaceous perennial herbs, lavender can be grown by seed or cuttings. While cuttings tend to be faster and more reliable, they require having a mother plant and lead to less genetic diversity. Cuttings are technically vegetative (asexual) clones of lavender, whereas seeds are sexually reproduced for more genetic diversity. - Source: Internet
  • Spray Bottle (optional) to lightly mist young lavender starts. Bottom watering works as well. Lavender prefers fairly dry soil. - Source: Internet
  • After cold stratifying your lavender seeds, take them out of the refrigerator and place them near a sunny window or 1-2” from a grow lamp (or both). Lavender needs warmth and a lot of direct light to germinate. Supplement with a heat pad if you don’t have a warm enough area (~70 degrees F). They should start sprouting in 1-2 weeks. - Source: Internet
  • Be sure you purchase lavender seeds from a reputable seed company to ensure there are no pathogens that may cause seed-borne diseases. You may also opt to collect seeds from a neighbor’s lavender plant. In this case, be sure that the flower spike has completely dried and matured the seed before you gather them. - Source: Internet
  • Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is a Mediterranean evergreen semi-shrub belonging to the mint family, Lamiaceae. Caring for lavender is not difficult and the delicate flowers are lovely fresh or even when dried. In nature, lavender tends to grow on stony slopes and in poorer soils. Read on to find out all about how to plant this bee-friendly beauty in your own garden so you too can enjoy its wonderful fragrant blossom. - Source: Internet
  • Leave the tray of lavender seeds on the heat mat until you get approximately sixty percent germination. Make sure that the soil does not completely dry out while the seeds are germinating. The soil should remain moist during this period, and bottom water as necessary. - Source: Internet
  • English Lavender: Sometimes known as common lavender, English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is the most widespread variety of lavender, found nearly anywhere lavender is sold or grown. English lavender is the preferred variety for its hardiness, ability to overwinter, and more compact, less wild habit. Garden performance aside, English lavender boasts the most fragrant and reliable blooms for harvesting. - Source: Internet
  • Lavender (Lavandula spp.) is a wonderful addition to any garden because it can be used as a culinary herb, a fragrant cut flower, a crafting material, or a natural-beauty ingredient. It even feeds bees! With lavender, the possibilities are endless. There are so many interesting species and varieties to try that it’s worth starting some of your lavenders by seed to get a large number of unique cultivars for the price of the seed packets, planting mix, pots, and a little time. - Source: Internet
  • As mentioned before, lavender is drought tolerant and doesn’t require much water. Water your transplants 1-2 times a week until the roots are established. Once your roots are established, begin watering your lavender once every 2-3 weeks. - Source: Internet
  • Plant lavender in spring, once all chances of frost have passed. This beautiful, fragrant herb is a great addition to raised beds, in-ground gardens, and growing in containers. Space lavender plants 12 to 18 inches apart in an area with plenty of sunlight and sandy, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.7 to 7.3. - Source: Internet
  • The lavender plant contains a compound called linalool, which can be toxic to animals like dogs and cats. However, the plant has such small concentrations of linalool that toxicity is not a common issue. The problem happens when dogs ingest an enormous amount of lavender. - Source: Internet
  • Prune back in early spring Lavender grown in regions with warmer winters no colder than 45-50°F will continue to grow perennially without any fear of dormancy. Woody stems and growth help protect against the frost. And just like its woody and perennial cousins, lavender can comfortably lie dormant beneath a pile of snow for the winter and continue its vegetative growth as soon as the late winter warmth has returned. - Source: Internet
  • One of the most common reasons your plant will fail is because it is too moist, and the soil is too soggy – this leads to root rot. I suggest you consider sandy soil, which has large particles that dry quickly. That said, sandy soil is often acidic, and your lavender plant enjoys a slightly more alkaline pH of 6.5-7.5. - Source: Internet
  • Lavender can be grown in combination with other plants to create a beautiful garden design. To ensure the different species grow well side by side, it is important to choose good lavender companion plants. Plants that require similar growing conditions and therefore go well with lavender include rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) or other Mediterranean herbs such as thyme (Thymus) or sage (Salvia). You can also grow lavender and mint together in a herb spiral as long as you plant the two herbs some distance from one another – mint is a fast growing plant that will out-compete the lavender for space. - Source: Internet
  • Never cut into the hard, woody stem. If you do, your lavender will not regrow and may not recover. With that warning in mind, grab your shears and let’s get pruning. - Source: Internet
  • Food Dehydrator: Herbs, fruits, and flowers are ideal for countertop food dehydrators for reliable and thorough drying. Food dehydrators feature step-by-step instructions for herbs and is the preferred method for many cooks and home gardeners. Many herbs such as lavender should only take about 2 hours in any household food dehydrator. - Source: Internet
  • This easygoing perennial is simple to tend once it’s established, however it has a reputation for being notoriously finicky to grow from seed. For this reason, lavender is most commonly propagated by cuttings. But that doesn’t mean it’s impossible to propagate from seed. In fact, with a little bit of patience and finesse, anyone can grow this aromatic herb from seed to a thriving floral garden shrub. - Source: Internet
  • You will want to pick your lavender when the whole fruit is solid red and firm. Firmly hold the fruit as the stem with one hand and the stem with another. Twist the lavender and gently pull away from the plant. - Source: Internet
  • Once you have found a suitable location and have chosen a lavender variety or successfully germinated your seeds, it is time to get planting. Remember that transplanting into a garden bed is only worthwhile if the soil and location are suitable. As noted above, if the soil is too clayey, you must replace a generous amount of it with more permeable soil. In extreme cases, you may need to mix in up to 60% drainage material, but here you are probably better off planting lavender in a mound (also called a Hügelkultur bed), raised bed, a herb spiral or even straight into a pot. - Source: Internet
  • **For those who are impatient…We’ve heard reports of people who’ve cold stratified their lavender seeds for only 1 week in the fridge before hastily taking them out and placing them in a warm, sunny location. Their seeds surprisingly germinated. This is not something that Sereniseed can formally recommend, but it is worth noting to try (maybe with just a few of your cold stratified seeds) if you really can’t wait the full 30-40 days of cold stratification in the fridge. - Source: Internet
  • Planting lavender as a border: There are many species of lavender, but when planting lavender in the garden as a border to a bed, it is best to opt for a small and compact variety such as ‘Blue Cushion’. Place the lavender plants in suitable soil at the edge of the bed with a spacing of about 25 cm between each plant. To avoid competition, plant no more than three plants per metre. It is important to prune your lavender hedge regularly, but avoid cutting back to the older woody part of the stem as the plants may not survive this. - Source: Internet
  • With its delicate sweet aroma and eye-catching purple spikes, lavender is one of the most coveted herbs on Earth. A close relative of rosemary and sage, lavender is a member of the Lamiaceae or mint family. It prefers hot, dry summers and cool, moist winters similar to its native Mediterranean climate, however, lavender can grow just about anywhere in the U.S. - Source: Internet
  • I personally like to harvest some lavender for myself and leave some for the bees to enjoy. The best time to harvest your lavender is when the buds have formed but have not yet opened. Buds harvested at this stage will retain their color and fragrance much better than open flowers, and once you have dried the lavender, buds will fall off the stem easily so that you can collect and store them. Using sharp bypass pruners, cut your lavender stems leaving at least two sets of leaves on the green stem of the plant. If you cut past the green growth into the woody stem, it will not regrow. - Source: Internet
  • About 1 month before you plan on transplanting your lavender into a garden, dig holes in an area that will receive at least 8 hours of light. Dig the hole about 8 inches deep and fill it 30% full with compost. Space the holes 12 – 18 inches apart to promote full growth. - Source: Internet
  • When your lavender is in seedling form, watch out for cool, damp conditions. This invites mold and fungus and is called damping off. Damping off causes your lavender seedlings to rot and can kill a large section or an entire tray of seedlings. Be on the lookout for soggy soil and conditions that are too cold. - Source: Internet
  • Generally speaking, it is better to avoid moving lavender plants altogether after they have been planted as this always causes them some stress. However, if your lavender is not doing well in its current spot, you might be better off replanting it elsewhere. It is best to do this in spring, between the end of March and May, to allow the plant to establish itself in its new location before winter. To minimise damage to the root system when transplanting lavender, be generous when digging up the root ball. - Source: Internet
  • Cold stratification is a process required for some seeds. After sowing, a cold period and then a warm period is required to break dormancy and allow germination. Some gardeners suggest cold-stratifying lavender seeds by placing them in moist soil in a cold greenhouse or refrigerator for two to seven weeks before moving them onto heat. If you are having difficulties in germination, you could consider this option, but I have had great success with germination by simply planting the seeds in trays and placing them on heat mats. The key seems to be to use the freshest seeds possible from a trusted seed supplier. - Source: Internet
  • Called “English” because it proliferates in the English climate, lavender’s main requirements are lots of sun and good drainage. It is not fussy about soil, and its presence lures bees and butterflies also attracts pollinators to the garden. Plant lavender along a walkway or near a seating area. - Source: Internet
  • Be sure to keep an eye on your lavender seedlings during the hardening off process. Be on the lookout for discoloration, wilting leaves (a sign that the sun is still too much for them), and overly dry soil. Water as needed. - Source: Internet
  • Allow soil to dry between waterings Allow soil to dry between waterings since lavender will always prefer drier, more arid soils. Water soil directly to avoid any moisture contact with vegetative growth. As mentioned, lavender actually thrives from some neglect, including lack of water. Lavender is susceptible to mold and rot if overwatered and not allowed to thoroughly drain between waterings. Mature lavender grown in shallow, dry bed - Source: Internet
  • Professional growers prefer cuttings for their uniformity and ease of propagation. When you already have a mature lavender plant, clippings of the stems are easy to root and grow into new plants. However, home gardeners may prefer to grow from seed for four primary reasons: - Source: Internet
  • In order to germinate properly, lavender seeds will need a bit more than just natural light. There is much debate on whether or not expensive grow lights, with a high light spectrum, are needed for indoor seed starting, but I have always found that it’s not the cost of the bulbs that make the difference, but the distance away from the seedlings. Use adjustable chains to hang the grow light and position it as close to the seedlings as possible. As the seedlings grow, raise the light to be an inch above the tops of the seedlings. Light that is too far away doesn’t have the intensity to signal healthy growth and causes seedlings to become leggy. - Source: Internet
  • We hope you’ve found all the information you need to successfully grow lavender from seed. Feel free to contact us if you have any more questions. We’re happy to help! - Source: Internet
  • Spittle bugs (aka frog hoppers) leave a clump of white foam on the stalk of lavender plants. This foamy substance looks like the froth created by hand soap. Fortunately, spittle bugs rarely devastate lavender plants and can be easily washed away by spraying your lavender plant with a hose. - Source: Internet
  • On the first day, you will want to place your lavender outside (in pots) for approximatley 2 hours. Each day thereafter, place the lavender outside for an additional hour until you build up to 6 straight hours. Don’t forget to bring your lavender inside if there is a frost or if there is poor weather like strong winds that can destroy your plant. - Source: Internet
  • Aphids usually do not harm lavender directly but they do aid in the spread of Alfalfa Mosaic Virus. The best course of defense is to keep aphid populations under control through the use of organic pesticides, essential oil sprays, and sprinkling diatomaceous earth. Ladybugs and lacewings also prey on aphids and are commercially available. - Source: Internet
  • Whiteflies are small insects often found on the underside of lavender leaves. They feed on plant sap and leave a sticky honeydew residue on your plant. They can reduce your lavender plant’s vigor and also cause mottled and yellowed foliage. - Source: Internet
  • This is why we especially recommend that you cold stratify your lavender seeds to speed up the process as well as increase the chance of successful germination. Cold stratification is simply a way to simulate winter soil conditions in order for the seeds to “wake up” and germinate sooner. Lavender does indeed like warmth and full sun, but it also needs cold stratification to aid germination. - Source: Internet
  • Starting lavender indoors is the preferred method of seeding because it is more reliable and climate controlled. It’s best to begin indoors around 10 to 12 weeks before the expected last frost date in the spring. This means - Source: Internet
    • If your lavender seeds germinate while still in the fridge (may happen around week 3), go ahead and plant them in your seed trays. Refer to the next section below, “How to Start Lavender Seeds Indoors.” - Source: Internet
  • When it comes to the time period before blooming, there is no getting around lavender seeds’ slow-growing nature. While cuttings can get established and flower as soon as the first season, lavender seeds take up to 2 years to bloom from the date of sowing. However, patience can pay off with more vigorous, diverse plantings that are extra resilient to pests and diseases. - Source: Internet
  • While cold stratification is technically optional, it makes a massive difference for your lavender seeds. Without cold stratification, lavender may have only a 20 to 30% germination rate. That means a ton of your lavender seeds could completely go to waste! With stratification, however, lavender usually has a germination rate around 80 to 90%. - Source: Internet
  • DIY Lavender Tea Garden fresh lavender tea is traditionally made from English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) because it is widely known to produce the most fragrant and flavorful blooms. Lavender tea can just as easily be made from garden fresh blooms harvested that morning as it can from dried herbs stored in the cupboard. Just like any freshly harvested herbal tea, lavender is easy to brew and takes no longer than 10 minutes. Lavender tastes excellent by itself but lends well as a part of a much more herbal blend consisting of chamomile, peppermint, and a touch of lemon. Brewing lavender tea makes the raw oils more palatable and digestible for consumption. - Source: Internet
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