Japanese Maple Tree Fungus Treatment will be the topic of our conversation on this particular occasion. There is, without a doubt, a great deal of information pertaining to red maple tree fungus treatment available on the internet. As a result of the rapid development of social media, it is now much simpler for us to acquire new information.

There is a connection between the pieces of information pertaining to Japanese Maple Tree Diseases Pictures, What Does Fungus Look Like On A Japanese Maple, and What Can I do About Spots on Japanese Maple Leaves or Trunk?. Regarding the other items that need to be searched, one of those things is concerning JAPANESE MAPLE PESTS & DISEASE IN THE UK, which will also have something to do with Best Fungicide For Japanese Maples. Japanese Maple Tree Fungus Treatment - Japanese Maple Fungus On Leaves

92 Tips for Japanese Maple Tree Fungus Treatment | JAPANESE MAPLE PESTS & DISEASE IN THE UK

  • The disease is caused by a fungus that thrives in cold, wet conditions. Usually, this fungus starts to grow in fallen leaves during the winter and leads to a full-blown infection by mid-spring. Preventing this condition is usually as simple as keeping your tree and its leaves from sitting in stagnant, cool water. Rake up any fallen leaves during the fall and if you do notice any infected leaves, simply prune them as soon as you can. - Source: Internet
  • Cankers start as depressed areas on the bark which quickly girdle twigs, branches, or trunks. Leaves, beyond the point of attack, wilt but remain attached to the tree. Eventually everything beyond the canker dies. Either the Nectria or wilt fungus or a girdling root may be suspected in cases where one branch of a tree turns red in the fall before the rest of the tree. - Source: Internet
  • In general, Japanese maples are very hardy and long-lived trees that have very few if any problems. However, like almost any other plant or tree, Japanese maples are susceptible to diseases…some which are inconsequential, others which can be deadly if not caught and treated early. That being said, most all diseases can be prevented with proper cultural care and sanitary practices. Selecting varieties that have demonstrated the best overall performance in your area is important too. - Source: Internet
  • I have a 20" maple tree looking very good leaf wise with little or no dead lims/branches. However nearly all the bark around the tree is pealing off. The wood area under the bark apears dry and has pin holes showing. The tree looks so good but how can it survive? Your comments please - Source: Internet
  • Question: The bark on my maple tree is peeling. Woodpeckers are active on the tree. Is the tree dying? - Source: Internet
  • Leaves that are spotty and are turning brown along the veins of the leaves may signal that the tree has anthracnose. This disease can be managed by removing all debris and dead leaves from around the trees before winter, as the fungus that causes it lives in the debris. In extreme cases, a fungicide needs to be applied - check with an arborist/local Cooperative Extension office to find out what fungicide sprays can be used in your area. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Bob, Sap is common; it doesn’t signal the end of the tree’s life though. Maples can live a hundred years or more if they’re in a good spot. I have a row that are so big around, it takes 2, sometimes 3 people to join hands around them! (I’m guessing they were probably around during the Civil War or even earlier). It is too bad if they’re causing trouble for you, since they’re great shade trees. If you do cut them down, consider selling the lumber instead of giving it away- a healthy, large maple tree (or several) is valuable to lumber dealers. - Source: Internet
  • The fungus winters over on fallen leaves. If the leaves are not raked up in the fall, the fungal spores will reappear in the spring and spread to nearby trees. Treating the trees is usually not effective because the spores can travel from a neighbor’s tree onto yours. - Source: Internet
  • As for your tree not growing as fast as you think it should, many maples this year and last were stressed because of the late frost that hit them. To counter this, try using a mild fertilizer (I use Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub)- you only need to use it once a year. Next, make sure your tree is getting enough water. If it isn’t raining frequently, give the tree a good watering at least once a week. Your tree should rebound by mid-July; maple trees are generally very hardy. - Source: Internet
  • With the exception of a few varieties that have demonstrated tolerance to all-day direct sun, most prefer part shade. Morning sun with afternoon shade or filtered sun is best. Soil: Plant Japanese maples in moist, well-drained, fertile soil. - Source: Internet
  • I’m not an arborist, but I am a maple syrup producer in NY. When the bark is coming off of a tree, and there are woodpecker holes, along with dying limbs, it usually means the tree is dying. Call your local Cooperative Extension office (your county office will have their number), and ask if they can help you identify what bug(s) are attacking your tree, and if the tree needs to come down for safety reasons. - Source: Internet
  • Powdery mildew is a fungal infection that appears as a grey-white, powder-like mildew that forms like a blanket on foliage. It is rarely a serious disease and more prevalent in moist climates or during periods of abnormally heavy rainfall during the warm season. This being said, I live in a very hot a humid area in mid Georgia and none of my Japanese maples have ever had powdery mildew. - Source: Internet
  • Watering your maple tree on a regular schedule and feeding the tree a low-nitrogen and high phosphorus fertilizer will help. If you have had other plants develop this disease and are concerned about the health of your maples, you can contact your local arborist and ask about solarization. This is a process that will heat up your soil enough to kill any fungi growing in it, however, it must be undertaken with care by a professional to avoid harming the tree. - Source: Internet
  • This insect can best be controlled by a dormant horticultural oil spray in early spring. However, sugar maple trees may be more sensitive than other maples to injury from horticultural oil. Spraying with malathion, or insecticidal soap, which are among the compounds registered for use against this pest in Connecticut, when the young are crawling will be helpful in control. Imidacloprid, applied early in the season as a soil drench, will provide season-long systemic control, but should not be used on trees being tapped for syrup. Consult the labels for dosage rates and safety precautions. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Theresa, Are there other trees, specifically maple trees, in your neighborhood that are exhibiting the same problem? I’m guessing it may be due to the late frost this year, which affected maple trees just about everywhere. If the rest of your tree looks okay, I suspect that it was just to do a late frost. Otherwise, problem indicators you should look for include insects and insect damage, and cracks or other damage to the bark of the tree- these indicate other problems that would require treatment. Feel free to call your local Cooperative Extension as well- they can tell you if there is a disease or frost damage issue in your area. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Mike in Houston, The problem your tree is experience is probably related to either not enough water throughout the growing season (the Japanese maple needs a lot!), or it is exposed to a lot of wind. Alternatively, the Japanese maple is susceptible to two other problems that cause similar leaf problems: aphids (visible on the underside of leaves), which leave a sticky residue - I use Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub, as it kills sucking insects and fertilizes at the same time. Another problem is Verticillium Wilt - requires pruning to remove the affected branches. I’d go with the least invasive methods first, since you’re not sure of the source of the problem. - Source: Internet
  • Lichen can be found on many maple varieties, but it’s more commonly seen on mature trees. Fortunately, it’s not harmful because it feeds off of the air rather than the trees. It doesn’t seem to have any long-lasting effects on the places where it grows. It can make it harder for the tree to get the nutrients that it needs via photosynthesis, depending on how large the lichen is and how much of the tree it covers. - Source: Internet
  • I live in Dallas ,Texas and have a red maple that we planted four years ago and blooms great every year however this spring as of today I am still awaiting leaves. The tree started buding several weeks ago but we got some really bad storms and for the last month we have had very windy conditions. After a bad storm the buds and new little leaves dried up and seems as though tree still looks it goes in the winter. I see green on the trunk so I don’t think it’s dead. Do you know what is wrong? - Source: Internet
  • Hi – I have a red maple about 60 years old. Over the past few weeks, after a prolonged period of dry and very hot weather in NY, the leaves have turned from red to a greenish brown color and are drooping. Is this occurring from a lack of water? If so, will simply watering the area around the tree avoid any long-term damage/death? Thanks! - Source: Internet
  • Answer: I don’t believe that you damaged or killed the tree. The black residue is just the sap. You happened to cut the tree when the sap had started flowing in spring (maple syrup making time!). - Source: Internet
  • Also I lost two larger sugar maple trees last year. Same thing happened, lost the leaves and then the trees died. I am ready to give up…..help! - Source: Internet
  • Hi Jeremy, Maples have had a really tough year, and many had it rough last year as well. The late frost, coupled with what seems like an increase in sucking insects are really stressing out the trees. I think the Bayer Advanced should help with reducing stress to your tree. Now the waiting game begins- most maples can leaf more than once when they are stressed, so your tree may show improvement by July. In the meantime, make sure your tree gets watered weekly (minimum) if there isn’t any significant rainfall in your area. - Source: Internet
  • The maple tree tar spot is fairly easy to identify. It’s caused by a fungal pathogen in the genus Rhytisma. While this affects maple trees in general, it especially targets Norway, silver, and sugar varieties. Tar spot will not kill your trees, but it’s unsightly and can cause them to drop their leaves before the fall season. - Source: Internet
  • Sapstreak is a ground-living fungus that generally enters the tree’s system via an injury near the roots or bottom portion of the tree. The fungus then inches upwards from the root system and infects the trunk of the tree. As time goes on, the fungus eventually affects the outward portions of the tree, such as the branches and leaves. - Source: Internet
  • Slow-growing things, like the Japanese maple, tend to be more susceptible to this (it’ll even grow on rocks!). Treatment: You can lift some lichens right off the tree without damaging it. You may want to wait until the tree’s dormant period so that you avoid damaging any buds. Alternatively, you can also prune leaves or branches that are covered. - Source: Internet
  • Various leaf spot diseases caused by fungal infection (like Phyllosticta and Septoria fungi) are found on Japanese maples, causing visible spots on the surface of leaves. Often triggered by a wet spring season, this fungal infection may spread on your Japanese maple tree, generally causing cosmetic injury. Illness is generally not serious but may cause premature defoliation. - Source: Internet
  • As for the tree not faring well, it probably will rebound since you have taken steps to correct the exposed root. While I hate to sound like a broken record lately, I’ve been using the Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub to treat my maples and other plants that were hit with the late frost. It helps reduce stress and stops many insects that would otherwise bother your trees. It only needs to be applied once a year. Next, I would make sure that the tree gets enough water if you don’t have a lot of rainfall- your tree will need this kind of TLC all summer. - Source: Internet
  • Your maple may be infected with powdery mildew disease. Here are some strategies to minimize the problem. Hope this helps for next year. - Source: Internet
  • It’s mainly cosmetic. It shouldn’t affect your trees in the long term. The fungus tends to hide in decomposing leaves. So the best way to protect against it is by cleaning up any dead leaves. Threat Level: Low (cosmetic) - Source: Internet
  • Unlike many of the items in this article, scorch isn’t caused by a bacteria or a fungus, which also means that it’s not infectious. It’s caused by unfavorably dry weather conditions. The leaves often show the first signs because they’re one of the last tree parts to get water, thus they show under-watering signs first. That said, scorch can sometimes be an indication of a more severe underlying cause such as root rot, which affects the tree’s ability to absorb water because the aptly named fungus damages the roots, or an insect infestation. - Source: Internet
  • Question: My maple tree is in a pot. I’m guessing, based on what I’ve read, that the roots are compacted. Can I trim the roots and repot it? - Source: Internet
  • Plant Japanese maples in moist, well-drained, fertile soil. Irrigation: Water Japanese maples only enough to keep the soil in the surrounding area moist, but not constantly soggy. Water in the early to mid morning. Late evening or night watering will promote development of fungal diseases. Water on foliage during the hot afternoon hours can scorch leaves. - Source: Internet
  • Verticillium wilt is caused by a fungus and is a challenging one to deal with as it’s hard to diagnose and cannot be cured. As it enters the tree, it will cause the leaves to discolor and shrivel up. Frequently, it affects the bark as well. As the fungus grows in the soil it can really only be handled by preventing its growth. - Source: Internet
  • Water Japanese maples only enough to keep the soil in the surrounding area moist, but not constantly soggy. Water in the early to mid morning. Late evening or night watering will promote development of fungal diseases. Water on foliage during the hot afternoon hours can scorch leaves. Sanitation: Remove fallen leaves and other debris from underneath and around the tree. - Source: Internet
  • I have a sugar maple that is 60 feet tall. Recently, a limb broke two inches in diameter. It had a brown soft center 3/4 inch in diameter surrounded by normal wood. Is this normal or diseased. - Source: Internet
  • Not to be confused with tar spot, these spots appear on a maple’s leaves, are tan to brown in the center, and are violently red to purple around the edges. The spots can also be small black pinpricks like a banana or mango that’s going bad. Caused By: The fungus Phyllosticta minima - Source: Internet
  • They’re also extremely versatile; there is a maple tree to fit the needs of practically any home. Japanese maples are excellent for smaller spaces as they grow easily in a compact environment. On the other hand, the famous sugar maple can grow to 75 feet high and 45 feet wide, an impressive size for any property. - Source: Internet
  • Question: A big piece of bark fell off my large silver maple tree. It looks like there are eggs on the underside. What is this? - Source: Internet
  • This disease is more common on Norway and Japanese maples than on sugar maple. Foliage on one branch or one side of the tree wilts, and sapwood occasionally shows intermittent green or green-black streaks. Some trees die quickly but others linger. The infection usually starts in the roots since this fungus is soilborne. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Peter, I’m not sure exactly what caused the death of the other maple you spoke of, but unless the Japanese Maple is exhibiting the same problem, it probably isn’t related. What is killing your tree, I believe, is that it has a split trunk, that is splitting even further. You probably only have one option, which is cutting off one of the trunks that developed in the Y. If that would make the tree aesthetically unpleasing, you probably should just cut down the tree. The reason the leaves are dying is because of the stress, and probably lack of water, due to the split. - Source: Internet
  • Preventing powdery mildew involves carefully pruning your maple trees; allowing plenty of room for air to circulate prevents the humidity that this disease thrives on. If you do notice signs of the disease, prune the affected leaves and make sure to destroy them far away from any other trees to prevent the fungus from spreading. You may also need to apply a fungicide to the leaves of your maple tree. - Source: Internet
  • One of the worst diseases that your tree can get is verticillium wilt. It affects the tree’s vascular system, which usually kills the entire plant. The verticillium fungus is a soil-borne disease and can remain dormant in the soil years before it makes an appearance. The fungus enters through the tree’s roots. - Source: Internet
  • They usually emerge from the ground in April. You’re likely to see adults in March to May. Susceptible Species : Sugar maples are preferred hosts. - Source: Internet
  • Norway maples have been widely planted, and though they are short-lived, they are fairly hardy in our climate and are more tolerant of road salt than sugar maples. Maple leaves are subject to sunburning, especially if hot sunny days follow a prolonged period of cloudy weather in spring. Sunburning resembles anthracnose infection and can be differentiated only by laboratory examination. Sunburning usually occurs on the south or southwest side of a tree, especially on those in exposed locations. Early infection of maple wilt in a large tree, or a girdling root, may resemble this trouble. - Source: Internet
  • I have a young maple that has little pointed tips on the face of all the leaves, they are about 1/4 inch long and there are about 10 to 20 on every leaf. The tree is leafing well but not growing good. This is the second year I have noticed this. I haven’t seen anyone else here with this problem. - Source: Internet
  • I live in downtown Chicago and for this summer almost all of the maple trees in our neighborhood have developed white spots on the green leaves. It almost looks as though someone has sprayed them with white paint or something. I don’t know much about trees but I’m worried about them. I read most of the comments above and have not found any mention of similar problems. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Hunter, If the spots are white and fuzzy it is probably leaf spot fungus. It won’t kill the tree. The fungus spores will winter over in the dead leaves on the ground, so rake up the leaves in your yard if you don’t want it coming back next year. If the spots make an appearance next year, you could spray the leaves with a fungicide; contact your county Cooperative Extension office (in the US) to find out what fungicides are allowed in your area. - Source: Internet
  • Japanese maple trees have never adapted well to over watering. They are highly susceptible to root rot because they have a low tolerance to soil that does not drain well. Proper planting and maintaining a watering regimen specific to Japanese Maple tree is the best treatment. - Source: Internet
  • This beetle, in the adult stage, feeds upon a great variety of trees and plants, including maple. The beetle is 1/2" long, bright, shining green, with copper colored wing covers. Two white spots on the tip of the abdomen show beyond the ends of the wing covers, and there are five white spots formed by patches of white hairs on each side of the abdomen. The beetles begin emerging in late June but their greatest abundance is usually about the middle of July. During drought periods populations of Japanese beetle are drastically reduced. - Source: Internet
  • Leaf scorch is a disease on Japanese maple trees that causes leaves to appear burned; darker areas of brown and black become visible on the surface of the leaves. Leaf scorch is caused by a bacterium-like pathogen that is spread by leaf hoppers. Leaf scorch lesions will be the first symptom to appear, followed by diminished health and a loss of leaves in which foliage remains only on large branches close to the interior crown of the Japanese maple tree. There is no effective treatment for bacterial leaf scorch, though antibiotic injections can prolong the life of the tree. - Source: Internet
  • Norway, silver, sycamore, and sugar, but almost all types of maple are affected by some form of tar spot or another. Treatment: It’s mainly cosmetic. It shouldn’t affect your trees in the long term. The fungus tends to hide in decomposing leaves. So the best way to protect against it is by cleaning up any dead leaves. - Source: Internet
  • Among maple trees, there are several common diseases that you should learn to keep an eye out for. Knowing how to identify the various causes of maple tree blight will allow you to make the best decisions possible regarding the health of your trees. In many cases, signs of disease can be subtle at first. That’s why you should regularly conduct a thorough check of the leaves, roots, bark, and branches of your tree and take note of anything that seems unusual. Needless to say, it’s best to diagnose any potential illnesses and take steps to treat them as quickly as you can. - Source: Internet
  • Sugar bushes, especially the sugar maple where logging activities are present Treatment: The main way to treat this is to prevent the tree’s roots from getting damaged, as this is how the fungus usually enters the tree. Damage could mean anything from an insect infestation weakening the tree to a car driving over the roots and wounding them. Some trees go into remission and recover without any treatment for unknown reasons. Some trees go into remission and then exhibit symptoms all over again. You may have to remove a tree that’s infected. - Source: Internet
  • I have a maple tree in my back yard. Half of the tree has leaves. The other halh of the tree is what I believe to be dead. No leaves, branches are very brittle and brake easly. Any suggestions? - Source: Internet
  • many thanks for your blog it is great! My name is Annie and I live at the other side of the Atlantic(in the UK). I desparately need your help please: I suspect that our maple tree has antracanosis. The tree is about 16 years old and over the last months started to loose the outer bark from the trunk and also some of leaves (some of the branches are leafless now). When I scratched the surface of the exposed inner bark,orange dust came off. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Lizanne, I’m not sure what you’re seeing on the leaves of the trees. Most fungal growths are brown or black, not white, on maple trees. I think a call to your local Cooperative Extension office may offer the answer, as they would be aware of any local conditions/problems in your area. - Source: Internet
  • Maples are also hardy trees, capable of handling a wide variety of conditions and growing in many types of soil and various lighting conditions. However, even the hardiest plants are subject to maple tree blight. Here’s what you can do about it: - Source: Internet
  • Many maples are susceptible to this, but Amur, Japanese, red, and silver maple seem especially so Treatment: The best treatment is an ounce of prevention. Be sure that the tree’s canopy isn’t overcrowded, that the tree isn’t over or under-watered, that any fallen leaves are removed, that any infected-looking leaves are removed, and that it has proper nutrients. You can also plant resistant strains. - Source: Internet
  • Question: It is mid-April, and we had to trim some branches from our maple tree for a garage delivery. The sap dripped profusely where we cut the two branches, and the next day the bark turned black. Did we damage or kill the tree? - Source: Internet
  • Powdery mildew on a soy bean plant. It’ll look similar on a maple. By Madan subedi01 from Wikimedia Commons - Source: Internet
  • There are a number of common causes of maple tree blight. Fungus, bacteria, and mildew are among the most common, although insects and weather conditions can sicken a tree as well. In many cases, you may notice signs of one disease that is somewhat harmless on its own, although it may be a sign of another, more dangerous condition in the tree. - Source: Internet
  • Hi - I noticed what looked like sawdust around the base of my large soft maple tree. When I investigsted a little further I saw large black ants working hard on an old spot where a rather large limb had been pruned before we moved here 14 years ago. I’m guessing it is a soft spot in a 50 year old tree. Will these ants kill my tree? Should I try to get rid of them and if yes, how do I go aboput it? - Source: Internet
  • Hi Jerry, So sorry for the delay in responding to you. The holidays bogged me down! I’m not sure exactly what may be causing the lesions you speak of. Did they occur as a result of a hard frost or a period of freezing weather followed by a warm thaw (or vice versa)? This can cause splits in the bark of maple trees. If this is the case, the tree will bounce back from the injuries, though they may look a little ugly until the tree ages a few more years. Avoid putting any type of paste or tar in the wounds as it only inhibits the healing process from this type of injury. - Source: Internet
  • Norway maple and Japanese maple, but almost all species of maple are susceptible to one strain or another. Treatment: The mildew can be brushed off. You can also apply horticultural oils and neem to help prevent the mildew from spreading. - Source: Internet
  • Hi S. Baker, The spots sound like a fungal problem, but it also sounds like possibly something more serious, like verticillium wilt. Since you’re actually losing trees to this I really think you should call your county Cooperative Extension office and request that they come inspect your trees. Don’t plant any more maple trees until you have an answer as to what is causing the problem. If you have verticillium wilt, it lives in the soil and will continue to attack any new maples that you plant. - Source: Internet
  • Young maple shoots of many varieties are especially susceptible to this. Treatment: Keep the tree dry if you can (by moving sprinklers elsewhere, for instance). Prune any affected-looking branches, and then rake them up and dispose of them properly. Rake any fallen leaves as well. - Source: Internet
  • Powdery mildew doesn’t often cause lasting harm to the tree that it’s on because it just sits on the top of the leaf (as opposed to getting inside the roots or eating holes in the leaves). The infection is often tree-specific, so a strain that affects a sugar maple likely won’t affect a Japanese maple. You can let the mildew sit, and it may resolve itself. You can also resort to fungicides (both natural and chemical) to help fight it. Typically, those are only resorted to on commercial plants and bushes like roses and wheat. - Source: Internet
  • Small (1/4 inch) grayish-tan spots with purple borders are scattered over the leaves. Tiny black dots in the spots are fruiting bodies of the fungus. Usually more severe on red, sugar, and silver maple but can occur on Japanese and Norway maple. - Source: Internet
  • All trees are susceptible to this, but Japanese, Norway, and sugar maple are especially sensitive. Treatment: Ensure that your tree is amply watered. You can also put mulch around the tree’s base to help improve soil moisture retention. Additionally, you can prune any dead branches to help reduce the tree’s stress. - Source: Internet
  • This fungus produces raised black spots that look like blobs of tar on the leaves. Depending upon the fungal species, spots can be irregular and up to one-half inch in diameter or can appear as tiny, pinpoint dots in clusters. Silver and Norway maples are very susceptible, but it is usually unsightly rather than serious, although significant defoliation can occur. - Source: Internet
  • Lichen looks so many different ways. Its appearance is affected by a wide variety of circumstances, including altitude, temperature, photosynthetic component, and which other components make up the lichen (such as the fungus it’s growing with). Caused By: Lichen is a composite organism made up of algae and/or cyanobacteria that creates filaments between shoots of fungi. They don’t simply appear out of nowhere. Generally speaking, the lichen dries up, a piece breaks off, the wind carries it elsewhere, and then moisture revitalizes the broken-off piece at a later time. - Source: Internet
  • Question: My red maple looks like it’s evenly coated in something shiny. The leaves look fine, but they are all sticky. This tree is planted next to a green maple that has no residue. What could this be? - Source: Internet
  • Hi Pat Pope, I don’t think your tree is sick, rather, the age of the tree has much to do with what you’re seeing. Older maples tend to leaf out on the outermost part of the branches, while the inner parts of the branches have fewer leaves and small branches. In addition, if the leaves seem smaller this year (and perhaps last year as well), I believe it may be due to the late frosts we’ve had. My maple leaves are much smaller, for example, because the initial set of leaves were hit by frost right before they opened. - Source: Internet
  • EARLY TREE DISEASE??? We have what may be a Japanese maple, about 15 feet tall, in front of our house in eastern Maryland. Soil is not very well drained, high amounts of clay and low lying, and it has been a very rainy year so far and much of last one too, but the tree has good drainage from where it stands as our yard slopes from there. On the south side of the bark it has a vertical thinly split region about 2 inches long with the bark around this sore turning black, and evidence of sticky maple dripping down the trunk under it and two feet down to the mulch below, where there are lots of tiny ants moving all around and up the trunk itself. I read elsewhere about using a sterile knife to cut around the sore and help the tree heal more efficiently (allegedly). Doesn’t sound unreasonable, but not really sure what the root cause is, so hesitant how best to act. - Source: Internet
  • My tree looks like it’s starting to have some problems. I setup a page for it http://stoneblue.com/ken/mapletree with photos and description . - Source: Internet
  • There are no effective controls, but maintaining the vigor of the trees with adequate water during dry periods and fertilization in the spring may help to keep the trees alive. The fungus persists in roots for at least 30 years. Only resistant trees, such as catalpa, gingko, sweet gum, or scots pine, should be used for replacements. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Mary, There are several beetles that may be responsible, or they could be carpenter ants (which wouldn’t kill your tree, they’re attracted to the honeydew). What has me concerned is the description of a peat-like material and the color of the insects; I’m not sure whether something is eating your tree (beetle), or if your tree is rotting. In either event, I suggest you contact your county Cooperative Extension office and request that they investigate it. Currently there are several species of beetle that are invading maple and ash trees, killing them in large numbers. - Source: Internet
  • Anthracnose is a common disease that affects the leaves of a maple tree. While it’s usually not truly harmful, it can do serious cosmetic damage to your tree and hamper your curb appeal. Signs of anthracnose include brown spots forming along the leaf veins, as well as leaf loss taking place too early in the year. - Source: Internet
  • As a fungus, this disease also thrives in cool and humid conditions. There is very little you can do to prevent it other than raking up the leaves during the autumn. If your tree does develop tar spot, you can have the tree pruned and it should mostly take care of the problem. - Source: Internet
  • “My Japanese maple looks really sick and not as full as usual. Leaves fell a lot, and they are all spotted. Is this because we received so much rain in the past several weeks/months? What do I need to do?” asked Linda from North Carolina. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Scott M., I think you are describing Maple Leaf Gall, which is a fungus. Check out my slideshow at the beginning of my article- slide #7 is a photo of this type of gall. While it can be treated with a fungicide, it usually needs to be done by a professional, especially if the tree is large. It is important to note that maple leaf gall will not harm the tree- it is just unsightly. - Source: Internet
  • Hi I have a maple tree in my back yard that has sap leaking on the west side of the tree. There seems to be insects the move within the bark of the tree. the sap only goes about three feet down the tree, and the tree looks wet in the area until you get close to observe it then you see that the sap is being leaked out of the tree. should I spray the tree for the insect? What is you suggestion pls - Source: Internet
  • Answer: I would recommend calling your local Cooperative Extension for identification of the eggs you discovered on the tree bark. Bug varieties differ according to location, and I’m not an entomologist. It may be a borer beetle, but several different beetles affect maple trees. Once the eggs are correctly identified, you can decide the best way to treat your tree. - Source: Internet
  • On maple leaves, there are several forms of galls caused by mites and midges. Some of the more common of them are the maple leaf spot gall, Cecidomyia ocellaris, on red maple; the maple bladder gall, Vasates quadripedes, and the maple spindle gall, Vastates aceriscrumena, on silver maple; and the gouty vein gall, Dasyneura communis, on sugar maple. Spraying with malathion, which is among the compounds registered for control of this pest in Connecticut, in early May can be helpful in destroying the mites before galls are formed. Consult the label for dosage rates and safety precautions. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Sam, Some maple trees this past spring experienced die back due to a late frost/cold snap. If this is the only problem you notice, the tree may sprout a second set of leaves this summer, but they will be smaller than those on the “good side” of the tree. I would take a “wait and see” approach if the rest of the tree appears to be in good health, and it was healthy overall last year. In addition, try using a one-time application of a tree fertilizer to help your tree recover more quickly. Personally, I’ve had luck with Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub (available at WalMart and other similar stores in the garden section) for my maples. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Mike, I suspect, based on your location, that your maple was anothr casualty of this year’s late frost. Maple trees can leaf out more than once during a growing season if they are stressed, so hang in there. The tree should recover, though it may be a month or so before you see any improvement. In the meantime, help your tree avoid any more stress- give it a mild tree fertilizer (I use Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub once a year, available at nurseries and WalMart, for example), and be sure it is watered well at least once a week when there isn’t sufficient rain. - Source: Internet
  • Hi, I’ve been planting sugar maples (small 18-24 inch saplings) on my property in Michigan for 5 years. I purchased some nice 12 foot trees last fall and planted them. Everything seemed to be fine but now most of the leaves are dead (dry up and turn brown) on one of the larger trees and the other one has lost a lot of the leaves in the top 1/3 of the tree. I have noticed that some of my small trees have brown spots on the leaves. Is it a fungal problem? What should I do? - Source: Internet
  • Answer: My first thought on this was cottony maple scale, but it seems early in the season for this particular problem. Here is a link to the University of Minnesota’s web page on this particular problem for photos and reference: http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/plant… - Source: Internet
  • We live in NW Indiana and have several groves of possibly 35 year old silver maples,last summer we took down one with a triple trunk because between the trunks was some kind of nest that formed rather quickly. It filled the inside of the trunks with what looked like peat but was infested with what looked like very tiny white ants. Now we have a second double trunk that the very same thing is happening to although as I scraped out this peat type material the bugs inside were also tiny but brown and look like ants. Can these be termites and if so is there any way to save this tree before it is totally eaten up? Thanks so much taking the time to post all the information here on your hub. - Source: Internet
  • Identification: Because the fungus infects the tree from the inside, it can be difficult to notice symptoms right away. Initial symptoms include small leaves. The small leaves can become branch dieback in subsequent years. Branch dieback will most likely appear at the top, or crown, of the tree first. The trunk’s wood will look tea-stained. - Source: Internet
  • The trees in my neighborhood have finally lost all of their leaves, and I noticed that my 2 maples have a lot more seeds than any others in the neighborhood. I have lived in my house for 24 years and they were large trees even then. I fear that they might be ill and are sending out seeds in a desperate attempt to leave a new generation behind. The trees have always been healthy, dark nicely shaped leaves and beautiful and they appeared to have the same amount of leaves as they always do. Any information you can give me would be very helpful. - Source: Internet
  • Norway maples are notorious for producing roots that grow around the tree instead of away from the trunk in the normal manner. As girth increases, the girdling root strangles the tree, causing leaves on one side to scorch, or small leaves sparsely arranged on twigs, and a dying back of branches. Growth is slow, and the whole tree dies. A flat side on the trunk usually indicates a girdling root is below ground. - Source: Internet
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